The weight threshold is the deciding factor: fabrics weighing not more than 200 g/m² go under 5208, while those exceeding 200 g/m² go under 5209. Both headings require at least 85% cotton by weight. Weigh a representative sample per standard test methods and confirm the result before declaring the heading.

Yes — the US tariff schedule assigns separate 10-digit lines to each combination of finishing state and weave construction, and duty rates can differ across those lines. Importers should identify both the finishing process and the weave type to select the correct subheading and avoid misclassification.