The nature of the predominant non-cotton fiber is decisive. If the fabric's non-cotton content consists mainly of manmade fibers, it goes to 5210 (not over 200 g/m²) or 5211 (over 200 g/m²). If the predominant non-cotton fiber is a natural fiber other than cotton — wool, linen, silk, for example — the fabric falls under 5212 regardless of weight.

Because cotton is below 85% and the non-cotton fiber (linen) is a natural fiber rather than a manmade one, the fabric belongs in heading 5212. The correct subheading then depends on whether the fabric weighs 200 g/m² or less (521211–521215) or more than 200 g/m² (521221–521225), and on its finishing state.