U.S. imports of Woven Cotton Fabric, Unbleached, 3- or 4-Thread Twill, ≥85% Cotton, Over 200 g/m² (HS 520912) totaled $312K in August 2026, imported from 15 countries.
Importers of Woven Cotton Fabric, Unbleached, 3- or 4-Thread Twill, ≥85% Cotton, Over 200 g/m² paid $43K in duties in August 2026, an average duty rate of 13.79% — duty actually collected as a share of the imports that cleared customs, not the published tariff schedule.
Last updated: August 2026 dataThree- and four-thread twill constructions—including cross twill—in unbleached cotton above 200 g/m² are the greige precursors to denim, drill, and workwear fabrics. Three 10-digit lines cover this heading: 5209120000, 5209120020 (non-napped), and 5209120040 (napped), with the napped distinction relevant for brushed or raised-surface twill goods. Turkey leads US imports under this heading, a reflection of that country's established position in denim and heavy twill production, with Japan, Pakistan, and India also supplying the market. The cross-twill variant—where the twill direction reverses—is explicitly included and classifies here rather than under a separate line.
AI-written summary of the official U.S. Census Bureau trade figures on this page — verify before relying on it.
14 import shipments a month
Unbleached ring-spun or open-end-spun denim in a 3×1 twill construction above 200 g/m² would typically fall here, provided the fabric has not been bleached or yarn-dyed (yarn-dyed denim shifts to the dyed-yarn headings). A mill certificate confirming the weave structure, thread count, weight, and finishing state—specifically that no bleaching or yarn-dyeing occurred—is the standard supporting document for this classification.
Napping raises fiber ends from the fabric surface to create a soft, brushed texture used in flannel-style workwear and outerwear linings. The US schedule separates napped (5209120020) from non-napped (5209120040) twill fabrics at the 10-digit level. Importers should confirm with the mill whether any mechanical napping or raising process was applied, as this determines the correct tariff line.
Subheading 12 of 16 in heading 5209
Subheading 520912 · $312K of $10.9M
ImportsExports
Imports
$312KYoY · free account
Exports
$50KYoY · free account
12-mo low · imports
Low · free accountOver the twelve months to August 2026, the U.S. imported $3.6M of Woven Cotton Fabric, Unbleached, 3- or 4-Thread Twill, ≥85% Cotton, Over 200 g/m² and exported $325K.
Fewer than 6 of the last 12 months reported trade, or the latest month was under $500K; the trend chart is not shown for thin series.
Through August 2026. Source: U.S. Census Bureau.
Trade Directory
List your company under HS 520912 — Woven Cotton Fabric, Unbleached, 3- or 4-Thread Twill, ≥85% Cotton, Over 200 g/m², so the companies trading it can find you. Be the first supplier listed.
HS10 import codes under this HS6 parent, each with its own page. Source: U.S. Harmonized Tariff Schedule.
| Code | Description | Imports for consumption | Average duty rate | Dutiable Share | Duty Collected |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5209120020 | Wov Fab Cot Gt 85% Cot Gt 200g/M2 Ubl 3-4th Tw Npd | $308K | 13.82% | 89.03% | $43K |
| 5209120040 | Wov Fab Cot Gt 85% Cot Gt 200g/M2 Ubl 3-4thd Twl | $3K | 11.06% | 100.00% | $384 |
HS10 export codes under this HS6 parent, each with its own page. Source: U.S. Schedule B export classification.
| Code | Description | Export Value |
|---|---|---|
| 5209120000 | Wov Cot Fab, 85% Cot, Unb 3-Or4-Th Twill Ov200g/M2 | $50K |
Import lines come from the U.S. Harmonized Tariff Schedule and export lines from Schedule B. The two are numbered by different agencies, so the same 10-digit code can appear in both tables describing a different product.
Imports · August 2026
origin
India and Pakistan together supply 56% of it. Turkey pays 19.0% duty; Mexico 0.6%.
customs district
destination
entry
rate provision · imports
10.8% enters free of duty; duty collected equals 13.79% of imports for consumption.