Woven Cotton Fabric, Unbleached, 3- or 4-Thread Twill, ≥85% Cotton, Over 200 g/m²

Unbleached ring-spun or open-end-spun denim in a 3×1 twill construction above 200 g/m² would typically fall here, provided the fabric has not been bleached or yarn-dyed (yarn-dyed denim shifts to the dyed-yarn headings). A mill certificate confirming the weave structure, thread count, weight, and finishing state—specifically that no bleaching or yarn-dyeing occurred—is the standard supporting document for this classification.

Napping raises fiber ends from the fabric surface to create a soft, brushed texture used in flannel-style workwear and outerwear linings. The US schedule separates napped (5209120020) from non-napped (5209120040) twill fabrics at the 10-digit level. Importers should confirm with the mill whether any mechanical napping or raising process was applied, as this determines the correct tariff line.