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U.S. imports of woven cotton fabric, unbleached, 3- or 4-thread twill, ≥85% cotton, over 200 g/m² (HS 520912) totaled $537K in July 2026, traded with 14 countries.
Importers of Woven Cotton Fabric, Unbleached, 3- or 4-Thread Twill, ≥85% Cotton, Over 200 g/m² paid $76K in duties in July 2026 — an effective duty rate of 16% on $467K in dutiable value, based on actual customs collections rather than the published tariff schedule. Woven Cotton Fabric, Unbleached, 3- or 4-Thread Twill, ≥85% Cotton, Over 200 g/m² imports of $537K in July 2026 ran 75% above the year-to-date monthly average of $307K.
Last updated: July 2026 dataThree- and four-thread twill constructions—including cross twill—in unbleached cotton above 200 g/m² are the greige precursors to denim, drill, and workwear fabrics. Three 10-digit lines cover this heading: 5209120000, 5209120020 (non-napped), and 5209120040 (napped), with the napped distinction relevant for brushed or raised-surface twill goods. Turkey leads US imports under this heading, a reflection of that country's established position in denim and heavy twill production, with Japan, Pakistan, and India also supplying the market. The cross-twill variant—where the twill direction reverses—is explicitly included and classifies here rather than under a separate line.
AI-written summary of the official U.S. Census Bureau trade figures on this page — verify before relying on it.
23 shipments/mo
Unbleached ring-spun or open-end-spun denim in a 3×1 twill construction above 200 g/m² would typically fall here, provided the fabric has not been bleached or yarn-dyed (yarn-dyed denim shifts to the dyed-yarn headings). A mill certificate confirming the weave structure, thread count, weight, and finishing state—specifically that no bleaching or yarn-dyeing occurred—is the standard supporting document for this classification.
Napping raises fiber ends from the fabric surface to create a soft, brushed texture used in flannel-style workwear and outerwear linings. The US schedule separates napped (5209120020) from non-napped (5209120040) twill fabrics at the 10-digit level. Importers should confirm with the mill whether any mechanical napping or raising process was applied, as this determines the correct tariff line.
HSChapter 52
Subheading 13 of 16 in heading 5209
Subheading 520912 · $537K of $10.6M
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ImportsExports
Imports
$537KYoY · Pro
Exports
$15KYoY · Pro
12-mo low · imports
YoY · ProThrough July 2026. Source: U.S. Census Bureau.
HS10 import codes under this HS6 parent, each with its own page. Source: U.S. Harmonized Tariff Schedule.
| Code | Description | Import Value | Effective Tariff % | Dutiable Share | Duty Collected |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5209120020 | Wov Fab Cot Gt 85% Cot Gt 200g/M2 Ubl 3-4th Tw Npd | $258K | 16.38% | 88.36% | $42K |
| 5209120040 | Wov Fab Cot Gt 85% Cot Gt 200g/M2 Ubl 3-4thd Twl | $36K | 16.50% | 100.00% | $6K |
HS10 export codes under this HS6 parent, each with its own page. Source: U.S. Schedule B export classification.
| Code | Description | Export Value |
|---|---|---|
| 5209120000 | Wov Cot Fab, 85% Cot, Unb 3-Or4-Th Twill Ov200g/M2 | $34K |
Import lines come from the U.S. Harmonized Tariff Schedule and export lines from Schedule B. The two are numbered by different agencies, so the same 10-digit code can appear in both tables describing a different product.
Imports · July 2026
origin
Pakistan and Germany together supply 52% of it.
customs district
destination
entry
rate provision · imports
13.1% enters free of duty; the effective duty rate is 14.09%.